When one hears "nebbiolo," the mind instinctively journeys to Barolo in Langhe (Piedmont). However, nebbiolo has a past—and a present—that extends far beyond the Langhe marketing narrative. Indeed, nebbiolo did not originate in Barolo but in the alpine regions of northern Piedmont, where today a few courageous wineries are crafting a new chapter. Among them, Colombera & Garella stands out as a key player.
It all began in 1992 when Carlo Colombera, weary of the rice fields of Vercelli and yearning for land over water, decided to take a leap of faith. He purchased a dilapidated farmhouse and two hectares of vineyard in what was then a no-man's-land for fine wine. Carlo, like many pioneers, started almost by intuition, yet with undeniable passion.
Today, that intuition has taken root. His son Giacomo Colombera, alongside the dynamic oenologist Cristiano Garella, has transformed that small venture into one of the most thrilling wineries in Alto Piemonte. They do not seek the fame of Barolo nor the collectible prices. They pursue authenticity. And indeed, they find it.
One of their most emblematic wines, Colombera & Garella Pian di Pe, hails from a unique vineyard situated at 350 metres altitude, with sandy volcanic soils. The viticulture is uncertified but conscientious. Sulphur, copper, plant or animal preparations... and a great deal of manual labour. No artifices.
The vinification follows the same logic: spontaneous fermentations with wild yeasts, without temperature control and devoid of technological embellishments. Here, the art of délestage is practised, that almost choreographic gesture of separating the must and pouring it back over the skins for a gentle, elegant extraction. The ageing process is patient, with two years in used barrels, one year in the bottle, and an intermediate stage in cement.
The result is Colombera & Garella Pian di Peu, a nebbiolo with vigour, yes, but also with freshness. A wine that speaks of a place and a way of doing things that is not in vogue... Just freedom, altitude... and a touch of rebellion.