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Meeting Marta Casas, Oenologist at Parés Baltà

11/12/2024 Interviews

As a child, she dreamt of being a weather presenter, but her reluctance towards physics led her to study pharmacy. Although medicinal herbs have always been in vogue, she scarcely imagined then that physics, chemistry, and especially meteorology would become pivotal in her life. It all began when, upon falling in love with her husband, she found herself almost inadvertently immersed in the world of wine. With a contemporary and, above all, sustainable vision, each of her creations is inspired by a respect for biodiversity and natural heritage. A true passion and expertise that Tim Atkin has acknowledged by naming her Winemaker of the Year 2024.


We invite you to watch the full interview in the video.


1- What is your first memory of wine?
I had no connection to the world of wine until I met my husband. However, I vividly remember that the first day I entered his family's winery, that distinctive aroma immediately transported me to my grandparents' house in Vilanova. It was then that I realised something I had never been aware of: wine had also been made in my own family.

2- When did you decide to fully immerse yourself in this world?
Although I am passionate about this world, the truth is I arrived here through a series of coincidences. I studied pharmacy, but while doing my internship in a pharmacy, I began studying oenology in the evenings. It wasn't a vocational choice, but surrounded by so much family involved in winemaking (my father-in-law, my husband, my brother-in-law, my sister-in-law, friends...) I didn't want to feel left out of their conversations on the subject. But once I had to do the internship, my father-in-law invited me to do it at his winery, and since then, I've been here.

3- In this process of professional change, who has been your great influence and what key lesson have they imparted?
My husband's grandfather, Joan Cusiné Hill, was undoubtedly a great influence and a true visionary. I remember how he was shocked to learn that my sister-in-law and I (the oenologists of the 3rd generation Parés Baltà) were a chemist and a pharmacist; he insisted that everything should be completely natural, without chemical artifices. So, although our winery has been certified organic since 2003, it has always operated organically, following the principles he advocated. Moreover, his vision extended further: in the year 2000, he didn't speak of climate change, but, anticipating a time of drought, he already had the idea of planting in the mountains, betting on high-altitude cultivation. His foresight in facing future challenges is something that has always deeply inspired me.

4- The second generation, led by your father-in-law Joan Cusiné Cusiné, introduced a line of young and fresh wines that marked a turning point for the winery. What changes occurred when the third generation took the helm?
The arrival of the third generation brought an explosion of innovation. On one hand, we developed the Micro Cuvée range, with single-varietal wines and specific parcel productions that capture the essence of the terroir. On the other hand, we introduced the R-evolution line, focused on wines of minimal intervention and maximum respect for the environment, solidifying our commitment to sustainability and authenticity.



5- With studies in pharmacy, oenology, and biodynamics, how do you tackle climate change?
Climate change is a reality, but we must also consider astronomical cycles. The ancients, without books or studies, observed the sky and followed the rhythms set by the planets and constellations to care for crops. These cycles, along with our capacity for observation, remain key. Nature is intelligent, and we must act as conductors: observe, plan, and make conscious decisions to guide our vineyards and farms in harmony with it. Our actions are essential for the proper balance of nature.

6- Do you believe wine can be part of a healthy lifestyle?
Yes, especially within Mediterranean culture, where bread, wine, and oil are pillars of the diet. The key lies in balance: in eating, drinking, and organising our lives consciously. When we maintain that balance, there should be no problems. However, excesses, addictions, or bad habits lead to imbalances that affect our health, whether due to alcohol, food, or other factors. Balance is fundamental and should be instilled from a young age to better understand our body and mind.

7- If wine is culture, how do we integrate it into the new generations?
Unfortunately, we have lost that connection with the younger generations. Abuse, lack of education, or misinformation are factors that have influenced this. Wine cannot lose its cultural value, and we must educate young people to understand that each drink has its moment and context, without dismissing them for their alcohol or sugar content. The key is to engage with them and teach them the value of gastronomic culture, good taste, and respect for traditions.

8- Looking ahead, what new projects are on the horizon?
In recent years, we have been focusing on wines without sulphites, the recovery of native varieties, and the application of the ancestral method. Additionally, we have begun experimenting with very low-alcohol wines made with a base of water and plants. For example, we are experimenting with a sparkling rosé made as a pet-nat that has only one and a half degrees of alcohol and a bit of residual sugar.

9- What wines from Parés Baltà would you recommend to someone who wants to start exploring the world of wine and why?
Our cava Gran Reserva Rosa Cusiné, a superior aged sparkling rosé dedicated to the grandmother of Parés Baltà. Undoubtedly, a fundamental woman in the history of the winery. A wine that stands out not only for its flavour but also for the symbolism it carries: advocating for the role of women who, although they worked in the vineyard and winery, were often invisible. Moreover, it reflects our philosophy of organic farming, something the family's grandfather promoted, seeking to create pleasurable wines without chemical products. A perfect example of organic, healthy, and delicious wine, reflecting the balance between tradition, quality, and respect for the environment.

10- Considering you are passionate about your work, do you have any other hobbies?
Besides continuing my education, as I am now completing the WSET diploma, I have a book club with eleven women from my village, Pacs. Each month we read a book and gather at someone's house for dinner, to discuss the book and enjoy ourselves. It's a great way to unwind and have fun with friends.

11- Lastly, could you recommend a wine that has recently surprised you?
Ethèric Blanc de Noirs from Finca Olivardots, a young winery run by a mother and daughter in Alt Empordà. A wine that impressed me with the combination of white and red cariñena, with a touch of skins. The freshness and acidity were fantastic. Moreover, this variety has a promising future with climate change, as it has a long cycle and doesn't develop much sugar, preserving acidity and ageing potential. An intriguing discovery!