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Discovering Dominik Huber, the Winemaker and Founder of Terroir al Límit

18/09/2024 Interviews

Originally from Bavaria, Germany, Dominik Huber moved to Priorat over two decades ago with two clear objectives: to perfect his command of Spanish and to delve deeper into the world of oenology. Thanks to his perseverance and meticulousness, he achieved these goals, and his efforts were rewarded with the coveted 100 Parker points for his wine Les Manyes 2016. Today, with his two well-established projects, Terroir Sense Fronteres in Montsant and Terroir al Límit in Priorat, Huber advocates for wines without wood that highlight the freshness, purity, and versatility of the landscapes. These are 100% gastronomic wines that demonstrate that a more fluid Priorat/Montsant is possible. It’s a real pleasure to interview him!


1- Although you don't come from a wine background, perhaps your family's involvement in the meat trade was a decisive factor in your commitment to producing gastronomic wines. What made you fall in love with the vineyard?
My grandfather had a butcher shop, and good food was always important in my home. In Italy, specifically in Liguria, I fell in love with the Mediterranean and its dishes, and I understood that without a good wine, gastronomy has no reason to exist. Adding to that, I have always been a nature lover and enjoy working with my hands, viticulture offers me everything.


2- We know you crossed the Pyrenees with the intention of self-improvement, but why did you specifically choose Priorat to develop your winemaking career?
The ones responsible are Josep Lluís Pérez and his daughter Sara Pérez, who welcomed me at Clos Martinet for six weeks of harvest. It all started when their distributor in Germany advised me to go there because it was a very special project and, above all, they were wonderful people. Without a doubt, they are my Mediterranean parents.


3- Arriving in Priorat and wanting to distance yourself from the style already blessed by “Saint Parker” must not have been an easy task. What led you to make this decision, and what were the biggest challenges you faced in carrying it out?
I cannot separate wine from gastronomy, and as a great lover of Mediterranean cuisine, especially Italian, I consider it to be dishes that are minimally intervened and made with fresh and natural products. But, in addition, it is not only known for its flavor but also for its approach as a social and cultural experience. Catalan gastronomy has much in common with Italian, and in my opinion, this cuisine does not work with highly elaborated wines that take the spotlight and overshadow the dish's expression. I believe there is too much ego in the wine world, and following my philosophy that wine is made in favor of gastronomy, one must adapt to achieve the best pairing. Fluid, crisp, and fresh wines that match the Mediterranean.

4- Upon receiving the coveted 100 Parker points for Les Manyes 2016, your commitment to a wood-free Priorat was solidified. How did you feel upon receiving this recognition, and what impact has it had on your career?
It was quite impactful because we went from being seen as the odd ones to being approved and even recognized nationally and internationally. In reality, it is a blessing that gives you the strength to keep working hard under this same philosophy.


5- With your Terroir al Límit project in Priorat progressing successfully, you ventured into the neighboring Montsant denomination with Terroir Sense Fronteres. What characteristics do these two projects share, and how do they differ?
Priorat and Montsant share Mediterranean characteristics. Both speak for themselves about this climate, this culture, and this ancestral history. However, each has its own identity. Priorat, with its licorella and its star grape cariñena, presents us with a powerful and very noble landscape. Montsant, with its clay soils and garnacha grape, offers us a more friendly and accessible scenario.


6- Montsant, often compared to the younger sibling of Priorat, has demonstrated its own identity and distinctive quality. Do you think Montsant can achieve the same prestige and international recognition as Priorat in the wine world?
I don't think it will achieve the same prestige because Priorat's success is due to a combination of circumstances that coincided. For starters, having people like Pérez, Palacios, Barbier, and Glorian in the same place is not usual. But also, Priorat has a very powerful landscape that makes it unique. However, I see a lot of future for Montsant because it offers a much friendlier landscape with many more gastronomic possibilities.


7- In favor of health, the current consumption trend leans towards wines with lower alcohol content and less intervention. How do you see this evolution in tastes, and how do you adapt to these changes in your wineries?
In reality, our project already laid its foundations under this philosophy. For 20 years, we have been committed to elegant, crisp, fresh, and above all, gastronomic wines that accompany and do not mask the dishes.


8- Another ever-present topic in the wine world is the impact of climate change. In this context, what future do you see for viticulture in Priorat and Montsant? Are you doing anything in particular to mitigate its effects?
In Priorat, the impact is harsher than in Montsant because it is drier, with higher temperatures and more inclination. From the beginning, we have committed to organic, biodynamic, and regenerative viticulture. But also, over these 20 years, we have opted to plant at higher altitudes (650-800 meters) and north-facing to face these adversities.


9- We know you have a restless spirit and travel a lot. Haven't you felt the urge to try your luck in another wine region of the world? If you could choose, where would you like to try?
I am in love with Sicily. It is an island where great European cultures have passed through: Vikings, Italians, Spaniards... And this confluence over the centuries is reflected in both its culture and its gastronomy. Additionally, wine regions that are currently standing out for their high quality, such as Etna or Vittoria, are wonderful.


10- In a world where immediacy is the order of the day, what do you think can be done to get the new generations to embrace wine culture?
As with all problems, the solution lies in education. The key to fostering wine culture in the new generations is education and integrating this tradition into everyday life. To achieve this, it is essential to promote the value of gastronomy and shared experiences around the table. Habits like enjoying meals with family, opening a bottle of wine, and creating moments of after-dinner conversation can transform wine into a significant part of social interactions.


11- Finally, could you name a wine that has pleasantly surprised you recently?
During these holidays in Liguria (Italy), we went to a wine bar and discovered Lumassina di Bosco from Terrazze Singhie. We liked it so much that the next day we visited the winery. A small project with 1 hectare of old vines in the middle of the forest. Very humble but charming.